What is Urea?

Urea is a diamide of carbonic acid and is classified as a keratolytic agent due to its ability to break down bonds between dead skin cells, facilitating their removal and promoting smoother skin texture. This mild exfoliating action makes urea beneficial for conditions like dry skin, psoriasis, and calluses. Additionally, urea can improve the penetration of other skincare ingredients, enhancing their efficacy.

How does this ingredient work in skincare?

Urea operates through multiple scientific mechanisms: firstly, as a humectant, it attracts moisture to the skin, aiding hydration and softening dry areas. Secondly, its mild exfoliating properties facilitate the removal of dead skin cells, promoting smoother skin texture. 

Thirdly, urea aids in skin barrier repair by replenishing natural moisturizing factors, thus reducing moisture loss and fortifying the skin's protective barrier. 

Lastly, urea enhances the penetration of other skincare ingredients, maximizing their efficacy. This multifaceted action makes urea a versatile ingredient in skincare formulations, particularly beneficial for addressing dryness, roughness, and impaired barrier function.

How does this ingredient compare to others?

While hyaluronic acid and glycerin are effective humectants for hydrating the skin, urea distinguishes itself by also providing gentle exfoliation and supporting skin barrier repair. Ceramides and fatty acids contribute to barrier health, but urea's combination of moisturization and barrier repair benefits sets it apart, making it a versatile ingredient that addresses multiple skin concerns simultaneously, providing comprehensive skincare benefits in a single ingredient.

Potential benefits of this ingredient for the skin

Urea offers several potential benefits for the skin:

• Hydration: Urea is a powerful humectant, meaning it attracts moisture to the skin and helps to retain it, resulting in improved hydration levels. This can help alleviate dryness and roughness, leaving the skin feeling softer and smoother.
• Exfoliation: Urea has mild exfoliating properties, which can help to gently remove dead skin cells from the skin's surface. This promotes cell turnover, resulting in a brighter, more radiant complexion and can also help to unclog pores, reducing the risk of acne breakouts.
• Barrier Repair: Urea supports the skin's natural barrier function by replenishing essential components of the skin barrier, such as ceramides. This helps to strengthen the skin's protective barrier, reducing moisture loss and protecting against environmental aggressors.
• Wound Healing: Urea has been shown to have wound-healing properties, potentially accelerating the healing process of minor cuts, scrapes, and abrasions. It may also help to reduce the appearance of scars by promoting tissue regeneration.
• Enhanced Penetration: Urea can increase the penetration of other skincare ingredients into the skin, enhancing the efficacy of products containing active ingredients such as vitamins, antioxidants, and peptides.

Products we use this ingredient in

Purslane Prebiotic Moisturizer

References

• Piquero-Casals, Jaime et al. “Urea in Dermatology: A Review of its Emollient, Moisturizing, Keratolytic, Skin Barrier Enhancing and Antimicrobial Properties.” Dermatology and therapy vol. 11,6 (2021): 1905-1915. doi:10.1007/s13555-021-00611-y
• Loden, M. “Urea-containing moisturizers influence barrier properties of normal skin.” Archives of dermatological research vol. 288,2 (1996): 103-7.